A Short Primer on Filipino Cuisine
The
Philippine Islands were discovered by the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand
Magellan on March 16, 1521. Philippines is
divided into three major group of islands, namely, Luzon, Visayas
and Mindanao.
Throughout
the centuries, Filipino cuisine has been a constantly evolving potpourri of
Oriental and Occidental influences. Chinese, Malay, Arab, Spanish, and American
explorers and settlers have each contributed to the region’s colourful culinary delights.
One of Filipino
cuisine's most dominant influences comes from the Spaniards, whose cuisine is
at the source of nearly 80% of all Filipino dishes. The Spaniards introduced
the use of tomatoes and garlic with the technique of sauteeing
them with onions in olive oil. Desserts like Leche Flan
(egg custard), Empanada
(turnovers) and many other Filipino dishes have a distinct Spanish
influence.
The use
of vegetable proteins such as Tofu and its derivatives is brought to the Phillipines by the Chinese. Pansit
(stir-fried noodles), Spring Rolls, Siopao, Sweet 'n
Sour sauces and many other exquisite foods are a must on a Filipino dining
table.
Native
fruits such as Buko (young coconut), Kaong (palm nuts) or Langka
(jackfruit) add to different recipes a Filipino taste and mixture.
Filipino
food, aside from being a blend of everything, is also regional. The inhabitants
of Ilocos, Pangasinan, Mountain Provinces and Cagayan Valley in Northern Luzon like their vegetables steamed or
boiled and flavored with Bagoong (a
delicious fermented paste derived from shrimp fries or fish). The Pangasinans are well known for the quality of their "Bangus"
(milkfish, much like U.S. Lake Superior whitefish in taste) which is grown in
an ancient system of fish farming or aquaculture in which bangus,
mudfish, catfish, carp and tilapia are raised in artificially created ponds and
rice paddies.
In some
parts of Central
Luzon,
including the area directly surrounding the capital of the Philippines, Manila, the combination of an abundant
and staple food supply mixed with the influences of the foreigners particularly
the Spanish and Chinese have resulted in the most sophisticated cuisine in the Philippines. They are well known for their
elaborate "Rellenos" (stuffed and boneless
chicken or fish) all with rich, spicy sauces. They prefer to sauté their
vegetables in garlic, onions and tomatoes with pork and shrimp.
Directly south of Manila, people here speak
the national language of the Philippines, Tagalog.
It is the country's major source of coconut as well as rice and fruits. Their
cooking is distinctive in their use of vinegar and sour fruits like tamarind,
unripe guavas, and kamias (carambola).
The addition of salt, garlic and pepper to
vinegar is often used as a marinade for fish before frying, broiling or for use
as a dip. They are well known for their "Sinigang," fish, vegetables or meat braised in
sour broth. Tagalogs are also well known for their
native cakes and delicacies such as "espasol, suman, hinalo, sinukmani and bibingka"
using sweet glutinous rice and coconut.
Bicol
and Tagalog are coconut growing regions in Southern Luzon. Laing
- consisting of pork and/or shrimp and freshly shredded young
coconut wrapped in "gabi" (taro leaves), flavoured with bagoong, seasoned
with hot chilies, then slowly simmered in coconut milk that is reduced to a
flavorful, spicy thick sauce, is one delicious example of this region's creations.
The Visayan islands are a haven for seafood, besides
being the main producer of sugar. Dining on sardines, tuna and mackerel together
with root crops such as sweet potatoes and cassava eaten as a dessert or snack,
Visayans prefer their fish broiled or simmered in well-seasoned
vinegar, then the sauce is reduced till it is almost dried, called "Pinamarhan”. Another exotic dish is called "Kinilaw" consisting of sliced raw fish marinated in seasoned
vinegar with onion, tomatoes and slices of unripe mangoes.
Corn is
extensively used in the islands of Cebu, Leyte and Samar. The Philippines is the only country in Asia that is predominantly Christian,
particularly Catholic. The only exception is western Mindanao near Cebu, which is mainly Islamic. The Mindanaon cooking focuses on cattle and fish with a blend
of Indonesian and Malaysian influences in the use of hot chilies and spices used
to make curry, as in Tiola Sapi -
a spicy boiled beef, Piarun - a fish entree heavily spiced
with hot chilies, and Lapua - blanched native vegetables
seasoned with salt and vinegar or guinamos - a version
of bagoong using Ilonggo
version of shrimp or hipon which lives in freshwater,
grows to only one and a half centimeters long, but swims to the sea to spawn
and then returns to fresh water to die.
As can be
seen, Filipino cooking varies extensively and combines the best of many
cultures.